Posts Tagged: 下降


15
十二 16

下降失误,经验不足,备份不够

下降过一个小屋檐没控制好,失去重心,制动手松开。抓结只绕了2圈,失效。下滑30多米跌落平台上,脚踝骨折。

关于下降的文章,非常好
Know the Ropes: Rappelling

原文链接: Rappel Error – Inexperience, Inadequate Backup

West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, East Face, Bee Sting Corner

On April 17 an inexperienced male climber (age unknown), a member of a three-person team, was rappelling for his first time from the anchor atop Bee Sting Corner (5.7) on the east face at Seneca Rocks. A more experienced climber rappelled the line first and was at the base when the accident occurred. The climber reportedly rigged the rappel device correctly, had an autoblock backup, and was wearing fingerless gloves. During the descent, the climber lost control of his brake hand and slid approximately 100 feet to the right side of a ledge at the start of the Skyline Traverse, sustaining a fractured ankle. The autoblock did not engage during this rapid descent. No fireman belay was applied by his partner at the base of the rappel. (Sources: MountainProject.com and Arthur Kearns.)

ANALYSIS

Based upon secondhand reports, the person likely lost control while negotiating a small roof approximately 15 feet down the rappel, perhaps in an attempt to avoid hitting the lip of the roof. The inability of the climber to control his descent is the primary cause of the accident. The climber applied only two wraps of an autoblock as a backup. The inadequate backup and failure of the partner on the ground to observe and apply a fireman belay to the rappel strands were contributing factors.

Between 2000 and 2011, 11.3% of all rappel incidents reported in Accidents were attributed to poor technique, while another 19.4% were due to inadequate backups. (See “Know the Ropes,” Accidents 2012). In this case, either the two wraps of the autoblock were not enough to “grab” the rope or the autoblock may have been placed in close proximity to the rappel device, preventing it from arresting the rappeller after the loss of control. The rappeller could have employed other techniques to assist in maintaining control, including applying more friction in the system (e.g., by wrapping the rope around his body). (Source: The Editors.)


24
十二 15

Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident

运动攀做顶下降, 未打结, 未做测试, 坠亡

来源: Rock & Ice

A tragic accident, the loss to a fall of a warm-hearted single mother of two teenage children, has broken the heart of the North Carolina climbing community and caught the attention of a concerned and sympathetic national readership. The cause of the accident was disclosed today.

Jennifer “Kayah” Gaydish, age 36, of Asheville, North Carolina, was a former wilderness ranger and the current North Carolina Conservation Coordinator for the conservation group Wild South. She also worked with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy; was a volunteer board member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC); was a consistent volunteer for the Carolina Mountain Club; and had started a trail crew called the Draft Crew, also as a volunteer.

She died Sunday, December 20 in a 50-foot fall at the Hidden Valley Lake area in Washington County, Virginia.

The accident occurred when she was cleaning the quickdraws from the anchors atop a sport route in the Ginseng area. She hung from two daisy chains, pulled a few feet of rope up, and clipped the bight to her harness, as is standard to prevent dropping the rope. That knot was reportedly still attached to her on the ground after the accident. Then she untied the rope, also normal practice, from her harness tie-in to thread it through the anchors (instead of the quickdraws, which she would bring down) in preparation for being lowered. In an instance of human error, she apparently did not retie that rope end to her harness, a sad reminder to all to double check everything, every time. No knot was found in the rope end. The rope came down with her.

She had originally been rigging the anchor to rappel, which perhaps caused confusion. She had difficulty threading the rope through the lower rings, so called down asking to be put back on belay. She was on belay when, moments later, she fell. No miscommunication occurred with the belayer.
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11
七 11

Lake Lure Accident

来源: alpinist.com

下降, 一端绳尾不到地.

On Saturday July 2, 2011 a rock climber died at Rumbling Bald near Lake Lure in Western North Carolina. Joshua Earl Haddock, 29, fell thirty to forty feet in an accident while rappelling. A Western Carolina University graduate, Haddock was working on a doctorate in philosophy at the University of Cincinnati at the time of the accident.

Rutherford Sheriff’s Detective Billy Scoggins said “Haddock was rappelling down a cliff when his rope came loose from a climbing pin.” One end of his rope was not touching the ground when he rappelled the route and the uneven end pulled through the anchor causing the fall.


19
五 11

Phil Powers, AAC Exec Director, seriously injured

来源: American Alpine Club

下降, 交流不畅, 跌落17米坠地.

May 19, 2011, Golden, COOn the afternoon of Tuesday, May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers was injured in a climbing accident. He is presently in stable condition in the intensive care ward at St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver, CO.

When the accident occurred, Powers was climbing with a group near AAC headquarters in Clear Creek Canyon’s Highwire area outside of Golden, CO. Clear Creek Canyon is a popular and accessible sport climbing crag on public land.

The area where the group was climbing is directly above the highway and river. The rock formation at the site of the accident is overhanging making direct sight contact difficult. Due to communication difficulties, there was confusion amongst the party over Powers’ method of descent which resulted in Powers falling approximately 50 feet to the ground.

Powers landed on dirt mainly on the left side of his seat and torso and suffered a brief loss of consciousness. His companions immediately assessed him and began implementation of wilderness first aid and rescue preparation. Golden, CO Fire Department responded quickly and began a complicated evacuation procedure.

After being stabilized at the accident site, Powers was lowered on a litter by the Golden Fire Department to the riverbed, hauled up to a waiting ambulance, then driven one mile down the canyon where he was transferred to a Flight for Life helicopter. He was flown to St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver where he immediately underwent a successful surgery to repair a punctured diaphragm and address a collapsed lung. Powers sustained multiple injuries to his torso region in the fall: including a broken arm, fractured ribs and vertebras, a punctured diaphragm, a collapsed lung, and substantial internal bruising. Powers was not wearing a helmet, but it does not appear that he suffered any head injury.


21
三 11

Climber Falls 140 Feet and Lives

来源: Rock and Ice,192, 2011.2.25

关键词:下降

做顶下降, 期待确保者放下, 确保者已经解除了保护.

On October 16, a 29-year-old climber from the Bay area arrived at the second anchors of the two-pitch sport climb Members Only (5.10d) at Owens River Gorge and prepared to descend.
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17
十一 10

Climber Dies in Gym Fall

来源: Alpinist Newswires

室内,下降, 同伴放绳时失控, 坠落12米,头触地

Graz, Austria. Georg Richter was declared dead on November 14th, four days after an accident in his local gym. The 21-year-old was an experienced climber and had just finished leading a 6+ route. According to local news outlets his less experienced partner lost control of the rope as Richter weighted it. In front of seventy other climbers Richter fell 12 meters (30 feet) striking his head on the gym floor. Richter was rushed to a local hospital but did not regain consciousness. Today, November 16th, would have been his 22nd birthday.

Sources: Julia Hoppe, steiermark.orf.at, regionews.at

Check your partner’s knot just in case. If you have never climbed with someone before, watch them belay you. Decide before the climb if you are going to lower or rappel. Wait for the verbal reply when you say “Take” or “Off Belay”. We see too many reports of climbers injured or killed through preventable accidents. It is one thing for us to write an obituary for a man like Ricardo Cassin who died at the age of 100 with numerous routes bearing his name. It is another thing to write about a twenty-one year old killed in a gym.

Please climb safely. -Ed


23
十 10

纪念Todd Skinner

from mh
Todd Skinner是美国在全世界留下最多脚印的攀登者。他在80-90年代使高端运动攀登在美国普及,那时甚至有人在他work的路线上抹机油来阻止他。他在26个国家有300条首攀线路,在Yosemite,Trango Tower等众多地区他留下了开辟先河的路线。阳朔的月亮山上的多条路线就是他和同伴首攀的,还为Jon Otto的Climbing Beijing (大概是中国出版的第一份攀岩指南?)写过序言,宣称中国在新世纪将以其众多未开垦的攀登资源占据重要地位。我听过他的一个关于在巴基斯坦Trango Tower高海拔自由攀登5.13的报告,是个很没有架子的诙谐的人。

2006年10月23日他在尝试约赛米提Leaning Tower 的一条新路线绳降时, 由于老旧安全带的确保环断裂, 坠落180米遇难。

http://www.toddskinner.com/

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24
八 10

纪念陈家慧(Christina Chan)


2010年07月14日11:31 中国新闻网
  中新社旧金山7月13日电 (记者 刘丹)32岁的美国斯坦福大学华裔女博士生克里斯汀娜.陈(Christina Chan)上周五(9日)下午在加州优山美地国家公园艾克恩峰徒手攀岩时不幸坠落丧生。

  优山美地国家公园是世界攀岩者的理想圣地,每年都有来自各地的勇者在这里征服高山巨石。公园巡警今天对媒体证实,克里斯汀娜?陈采取完全不用绳子和保护措施的徒手攀岩方式,9日下午约1时24分从艾克恩顶峰下山时因踩滑在距离地面约122米处坠落,直升机找到她时已经没有生命迹象。

  与克里斯汀娜.陈一同攀岩的同学吉姆?卡斯特拉兹在网上留言说,他们在完成攀登顶峰后下山时,由克里斯汀娜.陈引领,卡斯特拉兹随后,当他听到岩石滑落的声音时,亲眼看到克里斯汀娜.陈坠落,但不清楚她为何踩滑。

  克里斯汀娜.陈的朋友们说她在佐治亚州的亚特兰大长大。她的个人网页显示,2000年从哈佛大学生物科学毕业后,在斯坦福大学获得民用和环境工程硕士,2008年攻读政治科学博士,研究中国环保政策和政治,去年秋季在北京从事研究。酷爱户外活动的她是斯坦福大学登山俱乐部的两任共同主席和户外活动教育计划的指导,曾经在中国青海和阳朔、法国、意大利、瑞士和厄尔瓦多等国享受徒手登山的乐趣。自2005年秋天首次攀登优山美地国家公园后,她称那里有世界最美的高山和岩石。

  许多人在纪念克里斯汀娜?陈的网页上撰文怀念她的勇气、坚韧和对自然的热爱。送别仪式将于7月18日周六下午在斯坦福大学纪念教堂进行。

Her homepage:
In Memory of Chris Chan

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24
八 10

Graftiaux Takes Fatal Fall on Mont Blanc


from Alpinist Newswires by Meghan Ward
Up-and-coming bouldering and sport-climbing star, Chloe Graftiaux, died on August 21 after a fatal fall on l’Aiguille Noire de Peuterey on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. After reaching the summit, the 23-year-old from Belgium was climbing unroped down the face on a relatively easy section of the arete when a hold broke, releasing a large rock and sending Graftiaux on a 600-meter fall.

A committed all-around climber, Graftiaux greatly enjoyed alpinism and made annual trips to the Mont Blanc Range to climb classic routes, such as Voie Contamine on Aiguille du Moine (3412m) and the Gervasutti Pillar on Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). Rounding out her talents, Graftiaux had also mixed climbed M11 and ice climbed WI6. The French Alpine Club selected her for the 2008-2009 Groupe Excellence Alpinisme.

Originally from Belgium, Graftiaux moved to Grenoble, France, four years ago with the goal of becoming a qualified mountain guide at Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme (ENSA) in Chamonix.

On her profile on her website, Graftiaux said she was simply “born to climb.”

Her Homepage


1
七 09

2009.6.27婆缪峰李红学遇难


来源:老张
6.27婆缪峰攀登山难报告 [张彧]2009.7.14
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