05
12 11

【译文】RockandIce对快挂割断绳子事故的分析报告

快挂割断绳子

作者:Jeff Jackson    时间:2011年2月4日  刊登于《Rock and Ice》第191期

翻译:tethys (磨溪小T)

位于美国肯塔基州红河谷的“午夜冲浪岩壁”是Muir山谷(蜿蜒于红河谷里长约7英里的一段山谷,山体岩质为砂岩,适合攀岩、徒步等户外活动。—译者注)新开发区域中的一个。那里大部分都是长的仰角路线,以距离较远的支点之间做动态移动而闻名,路线上有事先挂好的快挂。最近,一个攀岩者攀爬那里一条5.12d名字叫做Tapeworm的 经典路线,起步之后,他先把绳子挂进了第一把快挂内,然后向第二个挂片的方向攀爬,不过最后他决定不挂绳,而是下攀。他在距第一个挂片两英尺高的地方脱落 冲坠。因为很大的冲击力,他下落的距离很短。据保护员和攀爬者(当事人要求不透露他们的真实姓名)描述,那一刻他们听到砰地一声!绳子被割断了,攀岩者双脚着地,向后翻滚并摔倒,头部撞击到岩石上并昏厥过去。他躺在地上,头部受伤处血流不止,浑身抽搐。
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05
12 11

【译文】redriverclimbing.com网站对快挂割断绳子事故的分析报告

快挂割断绳子

作者:Rick & Liz Weber   时间:2010年9月8日

翻译:tethys(磨溪小T)

最近,一个年轻人在“午夜冲浪”岩场(Midnight Surf wall)先锋攀爬“Tape Worm” 时在第一个和第二个挂片之间坠落。绳子从保护员的保护器,穿过挂在一个挂片上的快挂,连接到他的安全带上。这条路线的第一个挂片位置尤其的高,通常情况下 他是不会跌落到地面平台上。不幸的是,当他冲坠时,他的绳子被低处的快挂钩环割断,他坠落到平台上,头部受伤。庆幸的是他的伤并不严重,而且趋于痊愈。
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04
12 11

How to fallin 15 meters, and survive

时间:2011年2月6日中午1:40
地点:阳朔同门山东侧
概述:传统攀登保护失效,坠落15米到地面。
后果:肩部划伤,肌肉断裂,头部磕伤。

很幸运的是这篇事故报告能由我自己写。这是我八年的攀岩生涯中第一次事故,用资深目击者裂缝的话说,我现在付出的代价和这次事故的严重性相比真是太轻微了。
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04
12 11

【译文】Kaymoor发生攀登伤亡事故

  • 标题:Fatal Accident at Kaymoor
  • 来源:http://www.newriverclimbing.net/local-updates/46-fatal-accident-kaymoor
  • 翻译: tethys2011
  • 原文作者: Jon St. John
  • 原文日期: 2010-06-15
  • 原文语言: 英语
  •  

    Kaymoor发生攀登伤亡事故

    (Kaymoor岩场位于美国西弗吉尼亚州新河峡(New River Gorge)南部,拥有一些非常棒的运动攀登路线。—译者注) 

    上周六,2010年6月12日,在Kaymoor发生了一起攀登伤亡事故。Karen Feher,33岁,来自弗吉尼亚州的首府里士满,在路线Rico Suave顶部准备下降时,发生坠落,坠落高度约70~80英尺(约20~25米)。她在被送到Plateau医疗中心后不久即宣布死亡。
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    01
    09 11

    意大利: 落石砸断救援人员的绳子, 跌亡

    关键词: 落石

    2名德国人被困Pelmo山, 直升机因大雾不能出动. 2名救援人员从顶部下降, 突然发生巨大的落石砸断了他们的绳子, 2人跌落700米身亡. 被困者后来被直升机救出, 但救援人员的尸体因持续的落石仍未找到.

    Rockfall severs rescuers’ ropes

    Two members of the San Vito di Cadore Mountain Rescue service died early Wednesday morning as they tried to reach two German climbers stranded on Italy’s Monte Pelmo. Foggy conditions in the Dolomites had ruled out a rescue by helicopter, forcing Alberto Bonafede and Aldo Giustina to rappel off Pelmo’s 10,300-foot summit. The men fell some 700 hundred meters when a large rockfall cut their ropes. The stranded climbers were later rescued by helicopter, but continuing rockfalls have kept authorities from recovering the bodies of either Bonafede or Guistina. Dry weather conditions near the France-Italy border are believed to have caused a rockfall last week that closed a popular climbing route up Mount Blanc.

    来源: Outside
    Planetmountain


    11
    07 11

    Lake Lure Accident

    来源: alpinist.com

    下降, 一端绳尾不到地.

    On Saturday July 2, 2011 a rock climber died at Rumbling Bald near Lake Lure in Western North Carolina. Joshua Earl Haddock, 29, fell thirty to forty feet in an accident while rappelling. A Western Carolina University graduate, Haddock was working on a doctorate in philosophy at the University of Cincinnati at the time of the accident.

    Rutherford Sheriff’s Detective Billy Scoggins said “Haddock was rappelling down a cliff when his rope came loose from a climbing pin.” One end of his rope was not touching the ground when he rappelled the route and the uneven end pulled through the anchor causing the fall.


    19
    05 11

    Phil Powers, AAC Exec Director, seriously injured

    来源: American Alpine Club

    下降, 交流不畅, 跌落17米坠地.

    May 19, 2011, Golden, COOn the afternoon of Tuesday, May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers was injured in a climbing accident. He is presently in stable condition in the intensive care ward at St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver, CO.

    When the accident occurred, Powers was climbing with a group near AAC headquarters in Clear Creek Canyon’s Highwire area outside of Golden, CO. Clear Creek Canyon is a popular and accessible sport climbing crag on public land.

    The area where the group was climbing is directly above the highway and river. The rock formation at the site of the accident is overhanging making direct sight contact difficult. Due to communication difficulties, there was confusion amongst the party over Powers’ method of descent which resulted in Powers falling approximately 50 feet to the ground.

    Powers landed on dirt mainly on the left side of his seat and torso and suffered a brief loss of consciousness. His companions immediately assessed him and began implementation of wilderness first aid and rescue preparation. Golden, CO Fire Department responded quickly and began a complicated evacuation procedure.

    After being stabilized at the accident site, Powers was lowered on a litter by the Golden Fire Department to the riverbed, hauled up to a waiting ambulance, then driven one mile down the canyon where he was transferred to a Flight for Life helicopter. He was flown to St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver where he immediately underwent a successful surgery to repair a punctured diaphragm and address a collapsed lung. Powers sustained multiple injuries to his torso region in the fall: including a broken arm, fractured ribs and vertebras, a punctured diaphragm, a collapsed lung, and substantial internal bruising. Powers was not wearing a helmet, but it does not appear that he suffered any head injury.


    23
    03 11

    攀冰冲坠及Will Gadd的分析

    录像: Fall

    Ice Climbing is NOT rock climbing


    21
    03 11

    Rope Chopped by Carabiner

    来源: rock and ice, 2011.2.4

    关键词: 快挂磨绳

    第一把快挂冲坠, 绳子被锁割断. 快挂固定在线路上, 因不断冲坠锁已经被磨出一道槽.

    The Midnight Surf Wall at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky is one of the newer sectors in Muir Valley. Most of the routes are long and overhanging, featuring dynamic moves between spaced holds, and equipped with quickdraws. Recently, a climber started up one of the area classics, a 5.12d called Tapeworm. He clipped the first draw and climbed past it to the second bolt, but instead of clipping it, he decided to downclimb. Two feet above the first bolt, he slipped. Taking a short fall with little rope out resulted in high impact forces. Both the belayer and climber (who asked that their names not be used), described hearing a loud pop! The rope cut and the climber landed on his feet, stumbled backward and fell, hitting his head on a rock and knocking himself out. He lay on the ground bleeding from a head wound and twitching.
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    03 11

    Climber Falls 140 Feet and Lives

    来源: Rock and Ice,192, 2011.2.25

    关键词:下降

    做顶下降, 期待确保者放下, 确保者已经解除了保护.

    On October 16, a 29-year-old climber from the Bay area arrived at the second anchors of the two-pitch sport climb Members Only (5.10d) at Owens River Gorge and prepared to descend.
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