传统攀登事故


22
十二 11

【攀登事故报告】对Yellow Spur绳子被割断的调查报告

  • 标题:Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation
  • 来源:http://www.rockymountainrescue.org/randd/YellowSpur2010v6.pdf
  • 推荐者: tethys2011
  • 原文作者: Rocky Mountain Rescue Group
  • 原文日期: 2011-03-06
  • 原文语言: 英语
  • 传统攀登,先锋冲坠,绳子被割断,攀爬者坠落至地面死亡。落基山救援组进行了现场调查,访谈以及七天的测试查找事故原因,并提出分析结果和教训
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    4
    十二 11

    How to fallin 15 meters, and survive

    时间:2011年2月6日中午1:40
    地点:阳朔同门山东侧
    概述:传统攀登保护失效,坠落15米到地面。
    后果:肩部划伤,肌肉断裂,头部磕伤。

    很幸运的是这篇事故报告能由我自己写。这是我八年的攀岩生涯中第一次事故,用资深目击者裂缝的话说,我现在付出的代价和这次事故的严重性相比真是太轻微了。
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    23
    十 10

    纪念Todd Skinner

    from mh
    Todd Skinner是美国在全世界留下最多脚印的攀登者。他在80-90年代使高端运动攀登在美国普及,那时甚至有人在他work的路线上抹机油来阻止他。他在26个国家有300条首攀线路,在Yosemite,Trango Tower等众多地区他留下了开辟先河的路线。阳朔的月亮山上的多条路线就是他和同伴首攀的,还为Jon Otto的Climbing Beijing (大概是中国出版的第一份攀岩指南?)写过序言,宣称中国在新世纪将以其众多未开垦的攀登资源占据重要地位。我听过他的一个关于在巴基斯坦Trango Tower高海拔自由攀登5.13的报告,是个很没有架子的诙谐的人。

    2006年10月23日他在尝试约赛米提Leaning Tower 的一条新路线绳降时, 由于老旧安全带的确保环断裂, 坠落180米遇难。

    http://www.toddskinner.com/

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    24
    八 10

    纪念陈家慧(Christina Chan)


    2010年07月14日11:31 中国新闻网
      中新社旧金山7月13日电 (记者 刘丹)32岁的美国斯坦福大学华裔女博士生克里斯汀娜.陈(Christina Chan)上周五(9日)下午在加州优山美地国家公园艾克恩峰徒手攀岩时不幸坠落丧生。

      优山美地国家公园是世界攀岩者的理想圣地,每年都有来自各地的勇者在这里征服高山巨石。公园巡警今天对媒体证实,克里斯汀娜?陈采取完全不用绳子和保护措施的徒手攀岩方式,9日下午约1时24分从艾克恩顶峰下山时因踩滑在距离地面约122米处坠落,直升机找到她时已经没有生命迹象。

      与克里斯汀娜.陈一同攀岩的同学吉姆?卡斯特拉兹在网上留言说,他们在完成攀登顶峰后下山时,由克里斯汀娜.陈引领,卡斯特拉兹随后,当他听到岩石滑落的声音时,亲眼看到克里斯汀娜.陈坠落,但不清楚她为何踩滑。

      克里斯汀娜.陈的朋友们说她在佐治亚州的亚特兰大长大。她的个人网页显示,2000年从哈佛大学生物科学毕业后,在斯坦福大学获得民用和环境工程硕士,2008年攻读政治科学博士,研究中国环保政策和政治,去年秋季在北京从事研究。酷爱户外活动的她是斯坦福大学登山俱乐部的两任共同主席和户外活动教育计划的指导,曾经在中国青海和阳朔、法国、意大利、瑞士和厄尔瓦多等国享受徒手登山的乐趣。自2005年秋天首次攀登优山美地国家公园后,她称那里有世界最美的高山和岩石。

      许多人在纪念克里斯汀娜?陈的网页上撰文怀念她的勇气、坚韧和对自然的热爱。送别仪式将于7月18日周六下午在斯坦福大学纪念教堂进行。

    Her homepage:
    In Memory of Chris Chan

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    29
    五 09

    fatal accident in Joshua Tree 3/15/09

    来源:roseraie in rockclimbing.com

    Two climbers (one from San Diego, one from Anza) died from what appeared to be a Factor 2 fall just right of the White Maiden Buttress on Tahquitz Rock today. The belayer had the anchor pieces attached to him and there were some pieces still on the rope. The climbers were still tied together.

    The two fell down several pitches (estimated about 3-4) over Fool’s Rush. Our best guess is that they were climbing The Step, judging from where they fell from, where their packs were, and what we learned about the ability of one of the climbers. They sustained massive injuries and shattered their helmets.

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    24
    一 09

    PENDULUM SWING RESULTS IN BUSTED HIP

    来源:Rock and Ice 171期

    tick tock boom
    PENDULUM SWING RESULTS IN BUSTED HIP
    Issue 171
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    24
    一 09

    100-foot ripper on El Cap

    来源:Rock and Ice 172期

    century fall
    100-foot ripper on El Cap
    Issue 172
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    24
    一 09

    Fall and anchor failure injures two, but an unlocked belay saves the day

    来源:Rock and Ice 173期

    pride and prudence
    Fall and anchor failure injures two, but an unlocked belay saves the day
    Issue 173
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    22
    一 09

    6th July 2007 – Broken ankle, ribs and lower vertebrae

    来源:Australian Accident Register

    ROCKCLIMBING 6th July 2007 – Broken ankle, ribs and lower vertebrae,
    Frog Buttress, QLD

    A 29-year-old climber of several years experience was attempting
    Resurrection Corner at Frog Buttress. This was the first climb of a
    planned days outing. Weather conditions were cool and fine, with
    strong winds.
    The climber was being spotted as he climbed up to a ledge and placed
    his first piece of gear (a SLCD) into the bottom of the crack system.
    He was now approximately 6 metres off the ground. As he moved up, he
    bumped the cam with his elbow and noticed that it was now in a less
    secure position. He made a conscious decision to climb to a better
    stance and place some more protection. As he climbed, his foot slipped
    and he fell. The solitary cam was dislodged.
    The belayer saw the climber fall backwards, landing on his back half
    way down the ledge. His fall continued and he landed on his back
    again, this time on the ground. He then continued to roll a further 8
    meters down the slope.
    He ended up on his side with his back facing down the hill. He was
    conscious and coherent throughout the entire rescue. During his fall,
    his helmet (a bicycle helmet) was cracked at the rear in a few places.
    The climber remembers hitting his head fairly hard on his first impact
    with the ledge. Other climbers on the scene came quickly to lend
    assistance. The casualty was in an awkward position so packs and rocks
    were used to support his body. From this position he wasn’t moved
    until about an hour later when he was carried out. Ambulance arrived
    at the scene about 20 minutes after the initial 000 call. The
    Queensland Fire and Rescue Service, and the State Emergency Service
    turned up soon after. A helicopter was also called, but the strong
    winds prevented a winch out. The SES conducted a stretcher carry, with
    about 25 people helping. From the top of the scree slope the climber
    was ferried by ambulance to the Careflight chopper, and then
    transported to hospital.
    The climber suffered broken lower vertebra, a broken ankle, broken
    ribs, and minor internal injuries.
    The victim acknowledges that placing more protection after a large run-
    out is his standard practice, but failed to do so in this case. He
    also has stated that care and attention is needed as you climb past
    gear, as knocking it can move it into an insecure position. The use of
    a helmet proved invaluable in this instance (even if only a bike
    helmet).


    22
    一 09

    23rd September 2007 – Climber Falls

    来源:Australian Accident Register

    ROCKCLIMBING 23rd September 2007 – Climber Falls, Werribee Gorge, VIC

    A 22-year-old male climber was attempting Hadrian Direct (20) at
    around 1pm in good weather. He thought he was on Hadrian (16), and had
    placed one cam in the middle of the wall above a ledge. On the final
    move to top out, he reached out expecting to find a jug (believing he
    was on a 16), found nothing and fell. He fell about 3 metres, hit the
    ledge and was left dangling about half a metre below it. His belayer
    lowered him to the ground.
    Half a dozen people were quickly at the scene, and first aid was
    applied. The initial assessment showed nothing too extreme, so the
    focus became the painful ankle injury.
    The incident was reported via 000, and a person was dispatched to meet
    the ambulance at the road head and guide them in. The sun had gone
    behind the cliff, and as shock set in, the casualty began to shiver.
    People at the scene comforted him, and a beanie placed on his head
    gave quick results.
    About an hour and half after the incident, the ambulance and six SES
    volunteers arrived at the scene. The paramedics on-site assessment was
    a fractured lower tibia. The casualty was assisted into a stretcher,
    and carried out.
    The climber has since mentioned he should have not rushed things and
    should have double-checked everything.