十二 16



Know the Ropes: Rappelling

原文链接: Rappel Error – Inexperience, Inadequate Backup

West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, East Face, Bee Sting Corner

On April 17 an inexperienced male climber (age unknown), a member of a three-person team, was rappelling for his first time from the anchor atop Bee Sting Corner (5.7) on the east face at Seneca Rocks. A more experienced climber rappelled the line first and was at the base when the accident occurred. The climber reportedly rigged the rappel device correctly, had an autoblock backup, and was wearing fingerless gloves. During the descent, the climber lost control of his brake hand and slid approximately 100 feet to the right side of a ledge at the start of the Skyline Traverse, sustaining a fractured ankle. The autoblock did not engage during this rapid descent. No fireman belay was applied by his partner at the base of the rappel. (Sources: MountainProject.com and Arthur Kearns.)


Based upon secondhand reports, the person likely lost control while negotiating a small roof approximately 15 feet down the rappel, perhaps in an attempt to avoid hitting the lip of the roof. The inability of the climber to control his descent is the primary cause of the accident. The climber applied only two wraps of an autoblock as a backup. The inadequate backup and failure of the partner on the ground to observe and apply a fireman belay to the rappel strands were contributing factors.

Between 2000 and 2011, 11.3% of all rappel incidents reported in Accidents were attributed to poor technique, while another 19.4% were due to inadequate backups. (See “Know the Ropes,” Accidents 2012). In this case, either the two wraps of the autoblock were not enough to “grab” the rope or the autoblock may have been placed in close proximity to the rappel device, preventing it from arresting the rappeller after the loss of control. The rappeller could have employed other techniques to assist in maintaining control, including applying more friction in the system (e.g., by wrapping the rope around his body). (Source: The Editors.)

一 16

Rockfall Knocks Out Belayer, She Never Lets Go


On August 31, 2013, my climbing partner and I were at Dairy Farm Quarry in Singapore. We set a top rope on Super Crack (5.12b) from a neighboring line and my partner started to climb. I belayed from a small platform bordering a wall and a cliff. When he was two-thirds up the route, he shouted “ROCK!”

Here, I have to rely on another’s memory.
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十二 15

Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident

运动攀做顶下降, 未打结, 未做测试, 坠亡

来源: Rock & Ice

A tragic accident, the loss to a fall of a warm-hearted single mother of two teenage children, has broken the heart of the North Carolina climbing community and caught the attention of a concerned and sympathetic national readership. The cause of the accident was disclosed today.

Jennifer “Kayah” Gaydish, age 36, of Asheville, North Carolina, was a former wilderness ranger and the current North Carolina Conservation Coordinator for the conservation group Wild South. She also worked with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy; was a volunteer board member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC); was a consistent volunteer for the Carolina Mountain Club; and had started a trail crew called the Draft Crew, also as a volunteer.

She died Sunday, December 20 in a 50-foot fall at the Hidden Valley Lake area in Washington County, Virginia.

The accident occurred when she was cleaning the quickdraws from the anchors atop a sport route in the Ginseng area. She hung from two daisy chains, pulled a few feet of rope up, and clipped the bight to her harness, as is standard to prevent dropping the rope. That knot was reportedly still attached to her on the ground after the accident. Then she untied the rope, also normal practice, from her harness tie-in to thread it through the anchors (instead of the quickdraws, which she would bring down) in preparation for being lowered. In an instance of human error, she apparently did not retie that rope end to her harness, a sad reminder to all to double check everything, every time. No knot was found in the rope end. The rope came down with her.

She had originally been rigging the anchor to rappel, which perhaps caused confusion. She had difficulty threading the rope through the lower rings, so called down asking to be put back on belay. She was on belay when, moments later, she fell. No miscommunication occurred with the belayer.
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三 13


(新浪户外 2013年03月27日)一位32岁日本男子贵臣矢岛(Takaomi Yajima)3月16日在马来西亚(the Batu Caves)攀岩时摔伤不治死亡。当地警方18日通报称,死者在攀岩前,没有将连接腹部安全带的绳子系好,导致攀岩时松脱,从高处坠下,头部重伤身亡。


  发生事故的the Batu Caves在汉语里称作黑风洞,是一组巨大的石灰岩溶洞,也因此处香火鼎盛的印度教庙宇而著名。

十二 11


  • 标题:Climber Falls 140 Feet and Lives
  • 来源:http://rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/1123-climber-falls-140-feet-and-lives
  • 推荐者: tethys2011
  • 原文作者: Rock and Ice
  • 原文日期: 2011-2-25
  • 原文语言: 英语
  • 《Rock and Ice》第192期



    10月16日,一名来自Bay地区的29岁攀爬者到达Owens河谷的一条两段运动结组路线Members Only(5.10d)的第二段路线顶部,准备下降。

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    十二 11



    作者:Jeff Jackson    时间:2011年2月4日  刊登于《Rock and Ice》第191期

    翻译:tethys (磨溪小T)

    位于美国肯塔基州红河谷的“午夜冲浪岩壁”是Muir山谷(蜿蜒于红河谷里长约7英里的一段山谷,山体岩质为砂岩,适合攀岩、徒步等户外活动。—译者注)新开发区域中的一个。那里大部分都是长的仰角路线,以距离较远的支点之间做动态移动而闻名,路线上有事先挂好的快挂。最近,一个攀岩者攀爬那里一条5.12d名字叫做Tapeworm的 经典路线,起步之后,他先把绳子挂进了第一把快挂内,然后向第二个挂片的方向攀爬,不过最后他决定不挂绳,而是下攀。他在距第一个挂片两英尺高的地方脱落 冲坠。因为很大的冲击力,他下落的距离很短。据保护员和攀爬者(当事人要求不透露他们的真实姓名)描述,那一刻他们听到砰地一声!绳子被割断了,攀岩者双脚着地,向后翻滚并摔倒,头部撞击到岩石上并昏厥过去。他躺在地上,头部受伤处血流不止,浑身抽搐。
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    十二 11



    作者:Rick & Liz Weber   时间:2010年9月8日


    最近,一个年轻人在“午夜冲浪”岩场(Midnight Surf wall)先锋攀爬“Tape Worm” 时在第一个和第二个挂片之间坠落。绳子从保护员的保护器,穿过挂在一个挂片上的快挂,连接到他的安全带上。这条路线的第一个挂片位置尤其的高,通常情况下 他是不会跌落到地面平台上。不幸的是,当他冲坠时,他的绳子被低处的快挂钩环割断,他坠落到平台上,头部受伤。庆幸的是他的伤并不严重,而且趋于痊愈。
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    十二 11


  • 标题:Fatal Accident at Kaymoor
  • 来源:http://www.newriverclimbing.net/local-updates/46-fatal-accident-kaymoor
  • 翻译: tethys2011
  • 原文作者: Jon St. John
  • 原文日期: 2010-06-15
  • 原文语言: 英语


    (Kaymoor岩场位于美国西弗吉尼亚州新河峡(New River Gorge)南部,拥有一些非常棒的运动攀登路线。—译者注) 

    上周六,2010年6月12日,在Kaymoor发生了一起攀登伤亡事故。Karen Feher,33岁,来自弗吉尼亚州的首府里士满,在路线Rico Suave顶部准备下降时,发生坠落,坠落高度约70~80英尺(约20~25米)。她在被送到Plateau医疗中心后不久即宣布死亡。
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    七 11

    Lake Lure Accident

    来源: alpinist.com

    下降, 一端绳尾不到地.

    On Saturday July 2, 2011 a rock climber died at Rumbling Bald near Lake Lure in Western North Carolina. Joshua Earl Haddock, 29, fell thirty to forty feet in an accident while rappelling. A Western Carolina University graduate, Haddock was working on a doctorate in philosophy at the University of Cincinnati at the time of the accident.

    Rutherford Sheriff’s Detective Billy Scoggins said “Haddock was rappelling down a cliff when his rope came loose from a climbing pin.” One end of his rope was not touching the ground when he rappelled the route and the uneven end pulled through the anchor causing the fall.

    五 11

    Phil Powers, AAC Exec Director, seriously injured

    来源: American Alpine Club

    下降, 交流不畅, 跌落17米坠地.

    May 19, 2011, Golden, COOn the afternoon of Tuesday, May 17, American Alpine Club (AAC) Executive Director Phil Powers was injured in a climbing accident. He is presently in stable condition in the intensive care ward at St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver, CO.

    When the accident occurred, Powers was climbing with a group near AAC headquarters in Clear Creek Canyon’s Highwire area outside of Golden, CO. Clear Creek Canyon is a popular and accessible sport climbing crag on public land.

    The area where the group was climbing is directly above the highway and river. The rock formation at the site of the accident is overhanging making direct sight contact difficult. Due to communication difficulties, there was confusion amongst the party over Powers’ method of descent which resulted in Powers falling approximately 50 feet to the ground.

    Powers landed on dirt mainly on the left side of his seat and torso and suffered a brief loss of consciousness. His companions immediately assessed him and began implementation of wilderness first aid and rescue preparation. Golden, CO Fire Department responded quickly and began a complicated evacuation procedure.

    After being stabilized at the accident site, Powers was lowered on a litter by the Golden Fire Department to the riverbed, hauled up to a waiting ambulance, then driven one mile down the canyon where he was transferred to a Flight for Life helicopter. He was flown to St. Anthony’s Hospital in Denver where he immediately underwent a successful surgery to repair a punctured diaphragm and address a collapsed lung. Powers sustained multiple injuries to his torso region in the fall: including a broken arm, fractured ribs and vertebras, a punctured diaphragm, a collapsed lung, and substantial internal bruising. Powers was not wearing a helmet, but it does not appear that he suffered any head injury.