Know the Ropes: Rappelling
原文链接： Rappel Error – Inexperience, Inadequate Backup
West Virginia, Seneca Rocks, East Face, Bee Sting Corner
On April 17 an inexperienced male climber (age unknown), a member of a three-person team, was rappelling for his first time from the anchor atop Bee Sting Corner (5.7) on the east face at Seneca Rocks. A more experienced climber rappelled the line first and was at the base when the accident occurred. The climber reportedly rigged the rappel device correctly, had an autoblock backup, and was wearing fingerless gloves. During the descent, the climber lost control of his brake hand and slid approximately 100 feet to the right side of a ledge at the start of the Skyline Traverse, sustaining a fractured ankle. The autoblock did not engage during this rapid descent. No fireman belay was applied by his partner at the base of the rappel. (Sources: MountainProject.com and Arthur Kearns.)
Based upon secondhand reports, the person likely lost control while negotiating a small roof approximately 15 feet down the rappel, perhaps in an attempt to avoid hitting the lip of the roof. The inability of the climber to control his descent is the primary cause of the accident. The climber applied only two wraps of an autoblock as a backup. The inadequate backup and failure of the partner on the ground to observe and apply a fireman belay to the rappel strands were contributing factors.
Between 2000 and 2011, 11.3% of all rappel incidents reported in Accidents were attributed to poor technique, while another 19.4% were due to inadequate backups. (See “Know the Ropes,” Accidents 2012). In this case, either the two wraps of the autoblock were not enough to “grab” the rope or the autoblock may have been placed in close proximity to the rappel device, preventing it from arresting the rappeller after the loss of control. The rappeller could have employed other techniques to assist in maintaining control, including applying more friction in the system (e.g., by wrapping the rope around his body). (Source: The Editors.)
On August 31, 2013, my climbing partner and I were at Dairy Farm Quarry in Singapore. We set a top rope on Super Crack (5.12b) from a neighboring line and my partner started to climb. I belayed from a small platform bordering a wall and a cliff. When he was two-thirds up the route, he shouted “ROCK!”
Here, I have to rely on another’s memory.
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Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
运动攀做顶下降, 未打结, 未做测试, 坠亡
来源: Rock & Ice
A tragic accident, the loss to a fall of a warm-hearted single mother of two teenage children, has broken the heart of the North Carolina climbing community and caught the attention of a concerned and sympathetic national readership. The cause of the accident was disclosed today.
Jennifer “Kayah” Gaydish, age 36, of Asheville, North Carolina, was a former wilderness ranger and the current North Carolina Conservation Coordinator for the conservation group Wild South. She also worked with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy; was a volunteer board member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC); was a consistent volunteer for the Carolina Mountain Club; and had started a trail crew called the Draft Crew, also as a volunteer.
She died Sunday, December 20 in a 50-foot fall at the Hidden Valley Lake area in Washington County, Virginia.
The accident occurred when she was cleaning the quickdraws from the anchors atop a sport route in the Ginseng area. She hung from two daisy chains, pulled a few feet of rope up, and clipped the bight to her harness, as is standard to prevent dropping the rope. That knot was reportedly still attached to her on the ground after the accident. Then she untied the rope, also normal practice, from her harness tie-in to thread it through the anchors (instead of the quickdraws, which she would bring down) in preparation for being lowered. In an instance of human error, she apparently did not retie that rope end to her harness, a sad reminder to all to double check everything, every time. No knot was found in the rope end. The rope came down with her.
She had originally been rigging the anchor to rappel, which perhaps caused confusion. She had difficulty threading the rope through the lower rings, so called down asking to be put back on belay. She was on belay when, moments later, she fell. No miscommunication occurred with the belayer.
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(新浪户外 2013年03月27日)一位32岁日本男子贵臣矢岛(Takaomi Yajima)3月16日在马来西亚(the Batu Caves)攀岩时摔伤不治死亡。当地警方18日通报称，死者在攀岩前，没有将连接腹部安全带的绳子系好，导致攀岩时松脱，从高处坠下，头部重伤身亡。
发生事故的the Batu Caves在汉语里称作黑风洞，是一组巨大的石灰岩溶洞，也因此处香火鼎盛的印度教庙宇而著名。
2/14/12 – Prominent Norwegian climbers Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 45, and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, 37, died while attempting a new ice route on the big wall of Kjerag, Lyesbotn, in southwest Norway. Rescue helicopters found the two climbers the morning of February 10, hanging from the face.
Investigators surmise that a large chunk of ice may have fallen on the two climbers, causing them to fall 50 to 60 meters. They were found hanging upside down, with blood on the ice below.
Gravdal traveled to Lyesbotn on Tuesday, February 7, to meet Årtun to try a new route on Kjerag’s steep face. The two climbers planned to be back by Thursday. When they didn’t return, friends and family called rescue teams, who found Årtun and Gravdal. Eight climbers went into the area on Saturday to retrieve the bodies.
标题：Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation
原文作者： Rocky Mountain Rescue Group
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标题：Climber Falls 140 Feet and Lives
原文作者： Rock and Ice
《Rock and Ice》第192期
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This accident occurred on Nov 6th 2011 in South East Wyoming on a first ascent of a previously unclimbed route