01
01 16

Rockfall Knocks Out Belayer, She Never Lets Go

http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/rockfall-knocks-out-belayer-she-never-lets-go


On August 31, 2013, my climbing partner and I were at Dairy Farm Quarry in Singapore. We set a top rope on Super Crack (5.12b) from a neighboring line and my partner started to climb. I belayed from a small platform bordering a wall and a cliff. When he was two-thirds up the route, he shouted “ROCK!”

Here, I have to rely on another’s memory.
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24
12 15

获金冰镐奖首位女性登山者谷口佳被发现在山中遇难

【环球网综合报道】据日本NHK电视台12月22日报道,22日早上搜索队找到了在北海道大雪山系的黑岳山失踪的女性登山者谷口京。警方称,被发现时谷口已经处于心肺功能停止状态。

  据报道,22日早上10点,搜查的警察在北海道大雪山系的黑岳山发现失踪的登山家谷口佳。搜索队用直升机直接将其运到市内的医院。

  谷口21日与4位男性朋友一起登黑岳山时,出于安全起见用绳子把4个人的身体连在一起。在山顶附近休息的时候,谷口女士解开了绳子一个人去了其他地方。

  根据山顶悬崖处的痕迹,22日早上警方派出搜查队与自卫队直升机进行搜救工作。

  谷口不仅攀登过世界最的高峰珠穆朗玛峰,还成功沿东南壁路线首登卡美特峰,被授予法国“金冰镐奖”。据悉,谷口佳也是金冰镐奖历史上第一位获奖的女性。(实习编译:杨雪月 审稿:马丽)

Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan


24
12 15

Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident

运动攀做顶下降, 未打结, 未做测试, 坠亡

来源: Rock & Ice

A tragic accident, the loss to a fall of a warm-hearted single mother of two teenage children, has broken the heart of the North Carolina climbing community and caught the attention of a concerned and sympathetic national readership. The cause of the accident was disclosed today.

Jennifer “Kayah” Gaydish, age 36, of Asheville, North Carolina, was a former wilderness ranger and the current North Carolina Conservation Coordinator for the conservation group Wild South. She also worked with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy; was a volunteer board member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC); was a consistent volunteer for the Carolina Mountain Club; and had started a trail crew called the Draft Crew, also as a volunteer.

She died Sunday, December 20 in a 50-foot fall at the Hidden Valley Lake area in Washington County, Virginia.

The accident occurred when she was cleaning the quickdraws from the anchors atop a sport route in the Ginseng area. She hung from two daisy chains, pulled a few feet of rope up, and clipped the bight to her harness, as is standard to prevent dropping the rope. That knot was reportedly still attached to her on the ground after the accident. Then she untied the rope, also normal practice, from her harness tie-in to thread it through the anchors (instead of the quickdraws, which she would bring down) in preparation for being lowered. In an instance of human error, she apparently did not retie that rope end to her harness, a sad reminder to all to double check everything, every time. No knot was found in the rope end. The rope came down with her.

She had originally been rigging the anchor to rappel, which perhaps caused confusion. She had difficulty threading the rope through the lower rings, so called down asking to be put back on belay. She was on belay when, moments later, she fell. No miscommunication occurred with the belayer.
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28
03 13

攀岩者因安全绳松脱在马来西亚坠亡

(新浪户外 2013年03月27日)一位32岁日本男子贵臣矢岛(Takaomi Yajima)3月16日在马来西亚(the Batu Caves)攀岩时摔伤不治死亡。当地警方18日通报称,死者在攀岩前,没有将连接腹部安全带的绳子系好,导致攀岩时松脱,从高处坠下,头部重伤身亡。

  死者为日本籍,此前在马来西亚一家公司任职。由于生前喜爱攀岩运动,他每周都会去做攀岩运动,从未发生意外。这次他是和两名马来西亚朋友前往这一石灰岩山攀岩的,由于安全绳松脱,贵臣矢岛坠下10余米高的岩壁,头破血流,当场死亡。救援队耗时1小时才把卡在石岩缝处的死者抬出来。

  发生事故的the Batu Caves在汉语里称作黑风洞,是一组巨大的石灰岩溶洞,也因此处香火鼎盛的印度教庙宇而著名。


26
08 12

Rock Climbing Rescues: Causes, Injuries, and Trends in Boulder County, Colorado

来源: Rocky Mountain Rescure Group


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18
02 12

Prominent Norwegian Alpinists Die in Ice Climbing Accident

猜测是冰崩, 坠落50-60米


Bjorn-Eivind Aartun

2/14/12 – Prominent Norwegian climbers Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 45, and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, 37, died while attempting a new ice route on the big wall of Kjerag, Lyesbotn, in southwest Norway. Rescue helicopters found the two climbers the morning of February 10, hanging from the face.

Investigators surmise that a large chunk of ice may have fallen on the two climbers, causing them to fall 50 to 60 meters. They were found hanging upside down, with blood on the ice below.

Gravdal traveled to Lyesbotn on Tuesday, February 7, to meet Årtun to try a new route on Kjerag’s steep face. The two climbers planned to be back by Thursday. When they didn’t return, friends and family called rescue teams, who found Årtun and Gravdal. Eight climbers went into the area on Saturday to retrieve the bodies.

来源:climbing.com


22
12 11

【攀登事故报告】对Yellow Spur绳子被割断的调查报告

  • 标题:Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation
  • 来源:http://www.rockymountainrescue.org/randd/YellowSpur2010v6.pdf
  • 推荐者: tethys2011
  • 原文作者: Rocky Mountain Rescue Group
  • 原文日期: 2011-03-06
  • 原文语言: 英语
  • 传统攀登,先锋冲坠,绳子被割断,攀爬者坠落至地面死亡。落基山救援组进行了现场调查,访谈以及七天的测试查找事故原因,并提出分析结果和教训
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    14
    12 11

    【译文】攀爬者坠落40余米,所幸未亡

  • 标题:Climber Falls 140 Feet and Lives
  • 来源:http://rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/1123-climber-falls-140-feet-and-lives
  • 推荐者: tethys2011
  • 原文作者: Rock and Ice
  • 原文日期: 2011-2-25
  • 原文语言: 英语
  • 《Rock and Ice》第192期

    攀爬者坠落40余米,所幸未亡

    翻译:tethys

    10月16日,一名来自Bay地区的29岁攀爬者到达Owens河谷的一条两段运动结组路线Members Only(5.10d)的第二段路线顶部,准备下降。

       第一段是非常受欢迎的五星级路线,难度为5.10d,而第二段是让人筋疲力竭的5.9,很少有人去爬它。两段连起来超过50米,可以当做一条路线去攀爬,但是到达第二段顶部直接下降到地面是几乎不可能的,即使是使用一根70米长的绳子。
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    07
    12 11

    Mixed Climbing Avalanche Accident

    youtube: 录像

    This accident occurred on Nov 6th 2011 in South East Wyoming on a first ascent of a previously unclimbed route


    05
    12 11

    【译文】RockandIce对快挂割断绳子事故的分析报告

    快挂割断绳子

    作者:Jeff Jackson    时间:2011年2月4日  刊登于《Rock and Ice》第191期

    翻译:tethys (磨溪小T)

    位于美国肯塔基州红河谷的“午夜冲浪岩壁”是Muir山谷(蜿蜒于红河谷里长约7英里的一段山谷,山体岩质为砂岩,适合攀岩、徒步等户外活动。—译者注)新开发区域中的一个。那里大部分都是长的仰角路线,以距离较远的支点之间做动态移动而闻名,路线上有事先挂好的快挂。最近,一个攀岩者攀爬那里一条5.12d名字叫做Tapeworm的 经典路线,起步之后,他先把绳子挂进了第一把快挂内,然后向第二个挂片的方向攀爬,不过最后他决定不挂绳,而是下攀。他在距第一个挂片两英尺高的地方脱落 冲坠。因为很大的冲击力,他下落的距离很短。据保护员和攀爬者(当事人要求不透露他们的真实姓名)描述,那一刻他们听到砰地一声!绳子被割断了,攀岩者双脚着地,向后翻滚并摔倒,头部撞击到岩石上并昏厥过去。他躺在地上,头部受伤处血流不止,浑身抽搐。
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